Tuesday, 15 March 2011

Celebrating 'Irishness' on March 17



St Patrick's Day for me is one of the most ironic days of the year.
The day of full on Irishness, where listening to Diddly Eye music becomes the cool, drinking Guinness a must and a full suit of green totally acceptable- is the best day of the year NOT to be in Ireland!
You actually have not truly celebrated this island's patron saint in style if you have not done so in a foreign country. Even leaving the country to celebrate the day (weekend/ week) is not quite enough I estimate that you need to be about three months out of this Emerald Isle to truly appreciate and therefore enjoy March 17 in full.
This year Paddy's Day falls on a Saturday (2012) so we have the next day off and the one after that too (we need it - recession and all) and because of the weekend date it means all around the world we can party together (aside from some time challenges!)
When in Ireland, being Irish is so ... well ... common, right now even a little sad, but on foreign soil being Irish is well the most darn important thing in the world (even if the natives are truly sick of you and your kind!)
I am sure emigration has touched about everyone at this stage, a brothers, a sister, a best friend, cousin and it is terrible, horrible to watch them have to leave, heart breaking not to know when they will return, if they get a job, settle down, like it there ... but on the major plus side they get to celebrate St Patrick's Day in real Irish abroad style.


While we sup our pints and watch the parade, they will be flying high, dancing a jig, singing a song, flying a flag and really meaning it.
GAA jerseys from every county will combine and chat and drink and be merry, it doesn't matter if they know each other, if they will never see each other again, because for just one day, March 17 Irish people all over the world will unite.
On St Patrick's Day Irishness isn't a stamp on the front of your passport, it isn't a green white and gold flag, it isn't even an accent or a story, it is a state of mind, a piece of your heart and large proportion of your soul.
I believe St Patrick's Day was invented for Irish emigrants, because no matter how much they despise this country that has made them leave their homes, on March 17 they will only recall fond memories, funny antidotes and hazy pictures.
We can only hope that those left behind can do the same.
To the Irish at home and abroad – Happy St Patrick's Day!

High cross at the Rock of Cashel, co Tipperary
(C) fifiheavey




Tuesday, 22 February 2011

When things don't go toasty


When reviewing a hotel it is of course important to analysis every aspect of it's facilities, location, the staff, service, atmosphere and value but sometimes just one aspect of your visit can sway your feelings and there is nothing you can do about it.
In pubs, bars and discos my radar goes straight to the bathroom – if I don't like the set up, cleanliness, or style of the ladies powder room, the venue goes down in my estimation. For fairness I always either take a sneak peek (just a look in the door) or ask a male counterpart to also comment on the gent's side of things. Mean or not that is the way I do things – I almost ALWAYS visit the toilets in any establishment I visit – it has been a tradition for me since I was a little child!
I would like to think that I have quite a bit of experience with accommodation providers hostels, B&Bs, hotels, airport lounges, a friend's couch ... and the one thing that stands out in my list of things to ticked is the breakfast service.
I have only ever missed breakfast once while staying on a hotel B&B package in my life – and I did it just to prove I could, but I certainly wasn't happy about it.
I don't like to miss out on something I have paid for, but more importantly I feel it is an integral experience of staying in a hotel.
You would think that the service you receive depends on the money you pay – the quality of the provider, but I have often found this not to be always the case.
My main gruff is the toast.

I don't mind whether my order is taken or if I have to serve myself, both have their merits BUT it is the toast situation that gets me riled up.
I cannot stand the bog standard toast grill which you must (as a paying customer) place the toast in and stand for two minutes before it pops out, barely warm. You then must proceed (and probably holding up a queue of toast hungry people) to place the luke warm slice back into the grill and wait another custom two minutes before it pops out: black.
Burned toast – the smell, the taste, the wasted time, the indecency. Breakfast is ruined, the most important meal of the day is ruined ... why do hotels let this happen??
At a B&B (and at a fraction of the price) you are asked what you would like for breakfast and you are served the breakfast, plus tea/ coffee and toast to your table and quite often asked if you want more.
Hotels often grumble about how they have been hit my the recession, but when you can't get breakfast right – when the hospitality is replaced by a grill 'do it your self' toaster – is it any wonder?
All I would like is some nice golden toast to enjoy with my breakfast, it isn't that difficult, it stops the ugly line of people trying to balance plates and bowls and juice while deciphering who owns what slice of toast at the end of the queue.

“Sir/ Madam would you like tea or coffee and some toast?” - what a perfect way to start the day!

Tuesday, 15 February 2011

Romantic, relaxing, hectic weekend planned

I spent Valentine's evening hovering the house, putting a washing on and sitting down to watch the Irish election leaders debate. But don't feel sorry for me because I am heading away this weekend for a romantic break with my boyfriend.

Well we are not so sure if it is going to be a romantic weekend, we haven't decided on the category of weekend it is yet.

He wants a “relaxing” weekend, you know lie in on Saturday and Sunday, hit the breakfast just before it stops, maybe head for a back massage, a lazy swim and just chill out in the room, making a time for a bit of … before dinner and few drinks.

As usual I want to go see and do. I really want to have a gawk at the Newbridge Museum of Icons (we are staying near by) maybe drop into Kildare Village for a quick look and maybe a spin around to Naas, stopping off for a bite to eat there.

But we are not only celebrating Valentine's Day but also our anniversary (we are not married) – so it has to be romantic.

Problem: the weekend cannot be relaxing, include sightseeing and shopping and also be romantic.
So you see predicament. It is actually a re-occurring situation we seem to find ourselves in.
I love going away for weekend breaks around the country, it is a fun way of discovering the island in small segments, it gets us away from the routine of weekends at home and we actually spend quality time together. But once we get there my lover and I often quarrel over how exactly we should spend the time away!

“Relax and unwind” he tells me as he lies on the massive bed in his boxers flicking through the channels. But I don't want to waste my time sitting around doing nothing, if we are going to relax let's do it at the spa, let's give it a time slot so then at least I know that come a certain time “relaxing” is over with and we can move onto something else … like romancing or eating or sightseeing!
I know loads of couples who go away for a weekend to a hotel and barely step outside the bedroom for the three days, and they come back glowing but I would see that as a wasted opportunity to get out and see what is around.

You may be able to tell but 'Spontaneous' doesn't work for me, I am an organised person I like to know what is going to happen, because leaving it to chance usually means sitting looking at each other doing nothing! The problem with this weekend is that I have way too much to jigsaw together, each of them are fine by themselves, I could even successfully manage two of the above categories – but three, three is a challenge.

Of course I have done out a rough draft of the weekend:
Friday – travel to hotel, have dinner, romance
Saturday – Breakfast, spa/ relaxing time, shopping, eating out, romancing
Sunday – Breakfast, romance, sightseeing, lunch, home

Keeping my boyfriend to my invisible schedule of events could prove difficult though, and if one category runs a lot over time I may have to sing out load to drown out the alarm bells in my head …


You know sometimes it is less stressful to just stay at home!!



Tuesday, 25 January 2011

Australia Day is not like Paddy's Day

Australia Day is the official national day of Australia. It is a public holiday which is celebrated annually on 26 January, the day commemorates the arrival of the First Fleet at Sydney Cove in 1788, the hoisting of the British flag here, and the proclamation of British sovereignty over the eastern seaboard of New Holland.
Before I visited this vast continent I had heard about the big party celebrations held in every territory across the state, and some had even described the event as "just like Paddy's Day to the Irish."
So you can imagine that after a very long drive up the West Coast as part of a tour on January 26, 2008 I was pretty excited about getting out and celebrating with the locals. Everyone on the bus (mostly from the UK) were also looking forward to some flag waving, drunken singing and general happy celebrations.
We were staying on a farm outside of Northampton, and our tour guide kindly offered to bring us to the town nearby and drop us off at the bar for our all night party.
We arrive outside a wooden exterior rural outback bar and about 15 of us offloaded and greeted the locals sitting outside (about 3 middle aged men) with a loud "Happy Australia Day!" To which the men looked up ... and sniggered – they didn't laugh, they sniggered.
I was taken aback but just thought they were the sad minority ... inside the bar there were about 20 people propping the counter. Again, they were startled with the groups' chorus. These ones didn't even snigger, they looked up, stared for longer than is polite and returned to their drinks. They were not talking to each other, there was no music and some were playing the pokies(annoying arcade games that are in every pub in OZ, even Irish ones).
So while there may be fireworks, open air events and general jolliness in the major cities of Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane it is not quite celebrated as a national holiday all over the country. We felt as if we had insulted these people, came into their town and ruined their evening by reminding them about their national holiday.
The bar man told us "We don't really celebrate the day, its just like any other."
The date is seen as controversial by some Australians, particularly Indigenous Australians, who see commemorating the arrival of the First Fleet as celebrating the destruction of the native Aboriginal culture by British colonists. It has been locally termed as "Invasion Day" and even "Survival Day."
Let me just make this clear – Australia Day is no way like Paddy's Day.
And the outback is weird and scary – but that is what makes it unique and attractive.



Thursday, 20 January 2011

Swallow your pride - book a B&B

You are in love and you want to show your other half how much they mean to you. 
Valentine's Day is coming up, you want it to be special but ... moths fly out of your wallet, the bank machine spits out your card and even the euro saver menu at McDonalds is a stretch. So what to do? 
Well before you resort to making your own card out of recycled newspaper and a red pen, how about swallow your pride and book a B&B somewhere romantic?
Okay, it is not a luxurious hotel with chandeliers and a valet service but a B&B will have something you never found in a hotel - genuine character.
 Oh and most B&Bs will look different, which is something hotels seem to forget when decorating - "How will we compete against our neighbouring hotel?" they ask. "Oh yes let's decorate the hotel to look exactly the same as theirs, then maybe vistors will mistake our hotel for theirs and choose us..." well that must be what happens!
So you are dreading the small talk over breakfast with the owners? Think they will have heard every creak in the bed, were counting every giggle and grunt?
Forget the movies, the reviews from the 1950s and your own silly notions. Irish B&Bs are in general modern, clean fresh and friendly, cost a hell of a lot less and usually give you some cosy memories of your break away with that important someone.


For an idea of where to break away for Valentines I suggest:
Glencar Waterfalls, Co Leitrim - If it was good enough for Yeats poetry it is more than perfect for a romantic walk and cuddle beside the powerful water cascades.


Aran Islands, Galway - Get away from the mainland and experience the authentic island treatment. Is tú mo ghrá ... try it where it counts.


Dingle, Co Kerry - Why do all those yankies love Dingle? Probably because it looks like Ireland 60 years ago in the movies with all the pretty scenery to go with it and good craic.


Drogheda, Co Louth - One of the oldest towns in Ireland, but one that has a mischief of youth about it, explore the Boyne Valley and your own adventure here.


Enniskerry, Co Wicklow - The Gateway to the Garden of Island - next door to Powerscourt Estate and the Sugarloaf mountains - escapism and romance!







For some ideas on nice B&Bs check out: http://www.bandbireland.com/

Friday, 14 January 2011

Bridges of the World

Forget the Seven Wonders of the World - how about exploring the greatest bridges of the world?!
The ones that make you go "oooh and ahh," where you peer dangerously over their railings and gasp in awe looking up at the monstrosity. Or you could even have the pleasure of surpringly finding yourself driving along on one of the greatest bridges of the world ... scared shitless!
Here are my favourites in order of preference:








1. 
The Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, USA


























In my opinion the most famous bridge in the world is the red Golden Gate. I hate to admit I have not yet visited San Fran and so have not had the privilege to be bowled over by this stunning bridge spanning the Pacific Ocean, but I certainly hope to see it very soon - and when I do I will take that glorious walk across it to San Francisco Bay.

2. The Sydney Harbour Bridge, Australia
Iconic, legendary and at the moment more symbolic of freedom to Irish emigrants than the Statue of Liberty was to them in the 19th century. The picture of the harbour bridge with Sydney Opera House in the background is a postcard picture, I am delighted to say I have stared up at this icon, but I failed to actually stand on it.

3. The China Bridge, Budapest, Hungary
Linking Buda with Pest across the Danube River this bridge could indeed be described as the heart of this city. In 1849 it became the first permanent bridge across the Danube, it was blown up in World War II but was rebuilt and became the site for the demonstrations for independece in 1989 - cementing its staus as a symbol of liberty. In the Summer it is thronged with artists and in the Winter it makes a blustery walk in the Snow.

4. The Ponte Vecchio, Florence, Italy
No landmark is more steeped in history than this bridge, lined with shops and jewelery merchants, it dates from 1220. This is also one of only a few bridges that was spared a bomb threat during World War II because Hitler admired it's beauty. A perfect place for a stroll towards the close of business and if you have the funds purchase something that sparkles!

5. Le Pont Neuf, Paris, France
Just about every visitor to Paris has walked across this magnificent 1578 erection - the oldest bridge in the Romantic city. Featuring one of the world's first pedestrian sidewalks, it makes a beautiful destination for a stroll with your loved one offering unbeatable views of Notre-Dame cathedral in one direction and the Eiffel Tower in the other. Perfection.

6. The Brooklyn Bridge, New York, USA
One of the best locations to stare dreaming into the Manhattan skyline is on the thrilling Brooklyn Bridge. It's Gothic style towers, cables and mile long pedestrian walkway may be a breezy and noisy stroll but it is well worth the effort. The bridge took 16 years to build, from 1867 to 1883, becoming the first steel wire suspension bridge in the world when it opened.



7. The Tower Bridge, London, England
The unmistakable drawbridge across the River Thames is quite the sight. Not quite medieval it was built in 1894 next to the dreaded Tower of London. Victorian boilers and steam still raise and lower the bridge and it is best viewed at night when lit up.


Do you agree disagree with the above list? Leave a comment.

Sunday, 9 January 2011

Explore the island

If you are not already cursing the USC (Universal Social Charge) coming out of your wages, by the end of the month you certainly will. This charge will hit your disposable income, your pocket money and your travel plans. So foreign holidays will more than likely be scaled back if not eradicated completely this year.
Although exploring this wonderful island may seem hypocritical since we curse it every day - a few organised trips around some Irish hot spots may be just what we need - and exactly what this country is craves.


- Irish Year of Craft
Already mentioned on my Eleven Locations blog the Crafts Council of Ireland will celebrate its 40th anniversary this year, and in case you think local craft is made up for woolly jumpers and wooden ornaments you should get yourself away on a weekend trip to Kilkenny or indeed Carrick-on-Shannon to see some outstanding pieces of art (craft) their craft masters and also enjoy these two relaxing and dreamy locations. For local events see: http://www.kilkennydesign.com/  or http://intoleitrim.com/






- Tall Ships
Love Pirates of the Caribbean? The feel of wind in your hair and desire to have a parrot on your shoulder? Well you are gonna be shaking your peg leg at the Tall Ships Race in Waterford from June 30 this year! If you have never stayed in Waterford then this is your chance to explore the city with parades, music, food when the world's sailing nations sail into the Sunny South East. http://www.waterfordtallshipsrace.ie/






- Read, Write and Learn
Dublin has become the fourth UNESCO City of Literature in the world. Think you know everything about the Capital that you wish to know - think again. Stay clear of Leinster House and explore The Dublin Writers' Museum, the National Library or indeed the Irish Writers' Centre but whatever you do, do not miss Bloomsday June 16, Dublin Book Festival March 4-6 or Dublin's Writers' Festival May 31-June 5 and if you find a place on the city's grand lawns open up the City's selected book of 2011 Joseph O'Connor's 'Ghost Light.'


- Fancy a round?
North & West Coast Links Golf is Europe's Golf Destination 2011. You, your other half, the entire family and whoever else chooses to tag along have 12 championship golf courses to choose from. Royal Portrush to
Enniscrone will challenge your golfing skills but also your cultural mind - after some golf get out and discover some of the least populated and most stunning parts of Ireland. 

For packages: http://www.northandwestcoastlinks.com/

- Just a small drop
I'm usually not one to name an individual premises and promote it - but when somewhere like Harbour Bar in Bray, Co Wicklow get's voted Lonely Planet's Best pub in world it is impossible not to. The bar is often frequented by Irish celebrities including Colin Farrell,Brendan Gleeson and Sinead O'Connor. Testament to it's charm, the bar also scooped the prize for the “off the beaten track” category this year. http://www.harbourbarbray.com/

-Time to breathe



I have only visited Glendalough once, I was young on a school tour in fact, but despite spending my time worried about looking good in front of boys, I felt unusually calm here. For thousands of years people have been drawn to 'the valley of the two lakes' for its spectacular scenery, rich history, archaeology and abundant wildlife. But aside from all that you should come here without a camera, phone or other tech deck and just breathe - free you mind.


-The obvious choice
This is ridiculous of course everyone has been to the Giant's Causeway by now, right? You haven't? You feel guilty though right? World Heritage Site, Irish Legend and a very cool trip away with friends. You need to see this in 2011 - but be warned it is smaller than expected - oh and don't be lazy take the longer walk it is worth it. http://www.giantscausewayofficialguide.com/

-The Rock of Cashel
I admit I have not visited yet, but by Easter I will be able to boast about prehistoric raths to mediaeval monasteries and fortified town houses and I will be able to report on the smallest book in Ireland - how small is it? Get up and have a look you fool! Get your heritage on this year.









- Cork City
Well when in Tipp you may as well scoot down the motorway to the People's Republic of Cork - a former Culture Capital of Europe and this year's trendiest city. Aside from plenty of culture and heritage and the challenge of understanding Corkonian's accents the nightlife in this cool city is heard bet. What about the Jazz Festival or Live at the Marquee for the music lovers?






- All that glitters...
Like a magpie I love things that sparkle, like diamonds, oh and silver. And I do love Newbridge Silverware jewelery, cutlery, lamps ... everything. But even if you don't have the cash to flash on something new, why not gaze upon some very fabulous things in Newbridge's  Museum dedicated to legendary Style Icons. Be in awe of Michael Jackson's clothes, Audrey Hepburn's dresses, Maryln Monroe's letters, Grace Kelly's style and Judy Garland's extraordinary collection. http://www.newbridgesilverware.com/

-Head north
There are many beautiful places to see in Donegal, none so special as the Inishowen peninsula. See Irish nature run wild, sup in some very strange pubs and meet some unusual people as you walk, climb, drive or cycle your way around this peninsula. Find a secluded beach or indeed return to your pagan heritage and dance around some ancient burial ground.