Zooming in on the Book of Kells

The colours, the craft, the years of intricate details, gold lettering, the secrecy and the beautiful result of the Book of Kells is a sight to behold.

So when the news that The Book of Kells App for the iPad was released I was both happy and disappointed.
Happy because I want the world over to know about this illuminated manuscript created by Celtic monks from the late 6th Century up to the 9th Century.
But disappointed because, for some they will download the app, scroll through it and never actually take the trip to Trinity College Library, Dublin to see this national treasure.

I made the trip to Trinity College to see one of our most sacred treasures a few years ago. The visit to see the Book of Kells is much more than the few minutes you get with the selected pages.
It it about seeing Trinity College, the most prestigious and historic university in Ireland. It is about
the other manuscripts on display and the magnificent Long Room which houses 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books in its oak bookcases and the build up to the main event with a ‘Turning Darkness into Light’ exhibition which provides all the background and info needed.

The Library changes the four pages on display every few weeks, so each visit is never the same, but of course it means paying the admission fee each time to see it. For $11.99 in the iTunes store the Book of Kells App contains all 680 pages of the manuscript.

The good points of the app are of course that you will get to see each and every page of the Book of Kells in intricate details with some you can zoom up to six times their original size!

Technology is amazing and it makes this beautiful and mysterious treasure available to everyone. People will be awe struck by it’s contents that may never have known of its existence or may never have had the means of plans to ever view it. Maybe we can get more theories on it, more information from researchers the world over.
So do purchase, download and admire, but please remember seeing the actual book is much more magical and dazzling than the touch screen of your iPad.

And of course the original was not created for zoom, tap and click it was produced to inspire, to amaze and to educate.

Money scams at home and abroad

Going to any foreign speaking country with a different culture to your own, brings risk.

The biggest and most probable of those risks is that you will get fleeced for money.

Egyptian pounds
(c) fifiheavey

You will hand over too much money for services or goods. It may be by mistake or it may be that you want to avoid any international catastrophes.

Egypt is one of these countries where its inhabitants are professionally qualified to rid you of your money. And lucky for you they take any currency you have!

I am not talking about pick pockets here, no my experience of Egyptians is that they rather to politely ask you for your cash. Maybe for a tip or perhaps for some item that you do not want.

I didn't want a papyrus painting. I wanted to see the pyramids and go into the Egyptian museum and see the the Khan Ali-Kalili market. I also wanted to experience real Egyptian culture.

I did all of those things but I also bought a papyrus painting and some essence. I could have said no, I could have just walked away, at no point did I feel my safety was in danger - but still I felt pressured, I felt guilty and in the end I bought a painting.

Khan Ali-Kalili market, Cairo
(c) fifiheavey

My first 24-48 hours in Cairo were very expensive.

The main reason for that was it was my first time in Egypt and I stupidly told people that.

It is the first question Egyptians ask tourists. And the reason is if you say no then you probably know better than to trust them, but if you say yes – they have you!

So after 48 hours I was angry, I was resolved to be rude if I had to, to avoid spending unnecessary money on things, services I did not want.

And I mastered it, I haggled for my life, I walked away, I said 'NO' a lot and even tried to turn a money trick back on a native. I was a pro!

But then I got a huge shock, I had been fleeced for money long before I entered this new culture.

I was “robbed” at London Heathrow Airport.

My next door neighbours in the UK, of similar culture and the same language had tricked me out of so much more money than a hard working taxi man in Cairo ever could.

My flight to Cairo stopped over in Heathrow from Dublin. At the airport I realised that we would be landing in Cairo after midnight and was unsure if airport banks and exchanges would be open at that time. So I picked one out of the hundreds of currency exchanges shinning in the departure lounge in Heathrow.

I handed over €400, the nice smiley man told me an extra fiver and they charge no commission. Bargain. I did that and he handed me 2,600 LE (Egyptian pounds). It was only when we exchanged money in Cairo that we realised I had been squandered out of €100 in the first exchange because the nasty bankers had converted my money to sterling before moving it on.

Moral of the story: You don't need to go to Egypt to be fleeced, but at least I got a papyrus painting while there!

The Final Judgement -  the most famous scene to be duplicated on papyrus.

Flight cookies - not very yummy

My heart was beating fast, my sweaty palms held my credit card and I was about to explode with excitement as I finally got around to booking my flights to Egypt.

magic-horizon.com

But then, wait.

That's not the price - €30 jump in a matter of minutes. 

But I checked the price last week and twice today – just be sure.

Despair.

This is not God smiting me for my indecisiveness, this is for being too frugal, too careful. This punishment is for checking the flights costs, times, etc too many times.

I just want to board a plane.
(c) fifiheavey

My techie friends tell me that of course the more I search a certain flight on a particular date and time, the more demand it creates – putting the price up. 

That is fair enough, but:

“Some booking sites save your previous flight searches to figure out how badly you really want that flight – the more you search it , the more they increase the price.”- How cheeky.

The same sites can also increase prices after the date you have searched for to pressure you into thinking the price will increase if you wait to buy.

Outraged and a little sad that I had not just purchased the flight a week ago, I asked for help. 

The only tips I got were:

(A) Be more decisive – a personal weakness.

(B) Clear browser cookies each time you search a flight – making the sites think it is your first look every time.

Aeroplane cookie ...

To do this using Google chrome:

1- click the wrench icon on the tool bar

2- Select settings

4- In the privacy section, click content settings

5- In the cookies section – open the cookies and other data dialog

6- Remove all.

I did this and hurriedly checked the price again – no change. 

So maybe leave it a few days?

The flight is for October 1 – any advice on whether I should put off till later or just cave and buy now??

Guinness: Pure Genius

  Guinness is disgusting - There I said it.

Guinness Storehouse, St James Gate, Dublin
(c) fifiheavey

I feel sorry for poor souls who think they have to drink a whole pint in order to really experience Ireland.

You don't have to – we understand. It is an acquired taste.

You wouldn't eat a whole jar of Vegemite to get the Australia experience so don't do it here - if you must order a glass!

Saying that I love Guinness, I love the two tone colour, the complicated skill of pouring the perfect pint, the symbolism, the creative ads and the name brand. So when my my friend returned home from OZ on hols and suggested we visit the Guinness Storehouse, I jumped at the chance.

Indoor waterfall, Guinness Storehouse
(C) fifiheavey

Seven story's high and surrounded in a glass atrium shape in the form in a pint of Guinness, the storehouse is a superb look at what goes into the legendary stout. Stepping over the precious 9,000 year old lease signed by Arthur Guinness (the genius behind the black stuff) you start on your journey through the main ingredients of water, barley, hops and yeast. The indoor waterfall gives a lovely background for photos as well as a surreal visual display.

An interactive digital man takes you through the process of mixing the ingredients, roasting, boiling and settling the liquid – and all the rigorous tests that the Guinness undertakes before it hits the road in the barrel.

Learning the trade, Guinness Storehouse
(c) fifiheavey

As a past bar maid in Ireland, I can let you in on a secret the reason why Guinness tastes so good in Irish bars is of course that we know how to pour it, but also because more people drink it here the pipes are cleaned religiously. In other countries the Guinness may not be as popular and so will not need the same amount of cleaning and maintenance.

One of the best exhibits in the storehouse for me was the adverts. You can go all the way back to the very first Guinness ad and keep watching as the creative brand makes a name for itself all over the world using wacky ideas.

There is a new drinking responsible quiz and tips and a new find your Guinness roots part as well as a short film on the amount of events Guinness sponsor around the world.

Views from the Gravity Bar, Guinness Storehouse
(c) fifiheavey

If you have never had a proper pint of Guinness or are intrigued by the pouring process I recommend you enter the Guinness Academy and learn how to expertly pour your own pint (you get a keep sake cert too to show your friends back home). As I obviously know how to pour, we moved up to the Gravity Bar for some stunning views of Dublin's Fair City. We got our complimentary pints and after using them as photo props we passed them on to those more grateful for the "distinctive" taste.

Good things come to those who wait!
(C) fifiheavey

Tip: Buy your ticket on line – it is a little bit cheaper (€14.50 compared to €16) and prepare to leave with a Guinness moustache!

Getting to know your body

You know how it goes – you head up to Dublin for a Hen Party, eat drink and be merry and then wake up the next morning dehydrated, tired, carrying a few bruises and head off to see the controversial Human Bodies Exhibition!

The exhibition is advertised on every radio station and paper in the country it had it's world premier in Dublin – and that amounts of promotion deserves some attention. Also a dream lasts only 2 seconds? That had to be investigated!

The Human Bodies Exhibition, The Ambassador, Dublin
Photo from thejournal.ie

We strolled into The Ambassador after 12.20pm, paid the hefty €20 only to be met with an almighty stuffy crowd. We had to queue to see every single exhibit and as there are over 200 full and partial human body specimens – that is a lot of queuing.

The Ambassador was split into different sections of the body. We started with a basic skeletal system and added layers in each room – muscular, nervous, circulatory, digestive, respiratory and urinary. Towards the end there was a separate foetal development section and one especially to show the effects of disease on the organs.

Oh yeah so the exhibition is made up for REAL HUMAN BODIES.

But that never really effected me – it may be because my head wasn't exactly clear from the night before. But I was detached from the “realness” of it all.

Capillaries galore.
Photo http://www.thejournal.ie/  

The specimens featured in The Human Body Exhibition were donated in accordance with Chinese law to the Dalian Hoffen Biotechnique Laboratory which engages in research and innovation of the Plastination technique, and produces, preserves and provides specimens to medical schools and the general public for educational purposes. The laboratory uses the Plastination technique to preserve the specimens.

In each room you get a fact sheet, with information about what is on display and some fun facts which really are interesting and help with the queuing aspect.

The foetal development section was the most striking aspect for me. From four weeks to 12 you see the development of the foetus. This was truly amazing. The image of the 12 week foetus was astounding. I could have stared at it for hours, I kept looking at it and touching my stomach – imagine that grows inside you! Imagine that was once you! At 12 weeks you could see fingers toes, a nose, ribs ...

12 week old foetus
Photo: http://www.thejournal.ie/

Also another section which seemed to take everyone's interest was the one which showed cancer, diseases and damage to internal organs. Seeing the effects of smoke and obesity was shocking. The difference between a healthy lung and a smokers one really hit home. You could see breast, stomach, liver, lung cancer on display. Black spots are not good let me tell you that!

So is it worth a visit? Yes it is, it could certainly change the way you use your body.

Some of the interesting facts that have stayed with me:

• The first physical movement of the fetus occurs at 11 weeks – it can yawn!
• Your ankle carries x1.5 times your weight when you walk and x8 times your body weight when you run!
• Obesity can affect your hearing. And exercising can help your memory.
• Your tongue is the strongest muscle in your body
• The longer a man's left ring finger is the less chance he has of getting a heart attack.
• Smoking effects almost every organ in your body – but alcohol and drugs seem to only effect your liver!
• Over exercising can lead to fertility problems.
• The average dram lasts only 2-3 seconds and the average person has at least 7 dreams a night.
• You will die from a lack of sleep before you die from a lack of food.

City vs Country

I love cities, I love the noise, the pace, lights, people and 24/7 entertainment.

Cities are sexy.

But after a visit to Dublin's Fair City a few weekends ago, I have started to rethink my perception.

Because I also love silence, simplicity, space and most of the beautiful aspect of no traffic!

Maybe I am getting older, maybe I have no patience what so ever or maybe I need to own up to being a through and through bogger.* But in the war of city vs country I think country is edging its way out.

People everywhere! Taksim Square, Istanbul
(c) fifiheavey

Born in London but reared in the country side I have spent all my life wanting to live in a city. When I got the chance to do so in the best city in the world: Melbourne I loved every minute of the five months I spent there. And since my return to Ireland have dreamed of one more chance at city living.

Why? Because of everything. Everything a city offers to a young lady like myself. Thousands of people flashing before my eyes every day, never ending possibilities to spend my evenings and 24/7 entertainment. Close proximity to shops, events and glamorous venues.

Who wouldn't want to the live the high life?!

But in my fictional city life I had forgotten about the downside to any city.

A need for patience,a tolerance of traffic, fumes, too many people, too many places, no silence, no reflection and because of the high cost of living – no money.

I often quarrel about having to drive 30 -60 minutes for a good night out, or to an event, or to my favorite shop. But it takes the same amount of time or longer to cross Dublin city, or indeed any city and don't even get me started on public transport!

Plenty of space in the country. Downpatrick head, co Mayo
(c)fifiheavy

Is Dublin amazing – yes. Did I have a super good time – yes. Will I return soon – yes.

Do I want to live there ... eh no not really.

When travelling I love cities, they have so much variety, so much to see and they really showcase their culture, but for a more stable residence I think I will have to pick country over city.... for now!

City Vs Country – which one wins for you?

*Irish derogatory term used by city people to describe those who reside in the country side, whether or not the land they live on is in fact bog. A bog is not a toilet facility but a wetland that accumulates peat, a deposit of dead plant material that when harvested can be used as fuel.

Explore the island

If you are not already cursing the USC (Universal Social Charge) coming out of your wages, by the end of the month you certainly will. This charge will hit your disposable income, your pocket money and your travel plans. So foreign holidays will more than likely be scaled back if not eradicated completely this year.
Although exploring this wonderful island may seem hypocritical since we curse it every day - a few organised trips around some Irish hot spots may be just what we need - and exactly what this country is craves.


- Irish Year of Craft
Already mentioned on my Eleven Locations blog the Crafts Council of Ireland will celebrate its 40th anniversary this year, and in case you think local craft is made up for woolly jumpers and wooden ornaments you should get yourself away on a weekend trip to Kilkenny or indeed Carrick-on-Shannon to see some outstanding pieces of art (craft) their craft masters and also enjoy these two relaxing and dreamy locations. For local events see: http://www.kilkennydesign.com/  or http://intoleitrim.com/






- Tall Ships
Love Pirates of the Caribbean? The feel of wind in your hair and desire to have a parrot on your shoulder? Well you are gonna be shaking your peg leg at the Tall Ships Race in Waterford from June 30 this year! If you have never stayed in Waterford then this is your chance to explore the city with parades, music, food when the world's sailing nations sail into the Sunny South East. http://www.waterfordtallshipsrace.ie/






- Read, Write and Learn
Dublin has become the fourth UNESCO City of Literature in the world. Think you know everything about the Capital that you wish to know - think again. Stay clear of Leinster House and explore The Dublin Writers' Museum, the National Library or indeed the Irish Writers' Centre but whatever you do, do not miss Bloomsday June 16, Dublin Book Festival March 4-6 or Dublin's Writers' Festival May 31-June 5 and if you find a place on the city's grand lawns open up the City's selected book of 2011 Joseph O'Connor's 'Ghost Light.'


- Fancy a round?
North & West Coast Links Golf is Europe's Golf Destination 2011. You, your other half, the entire family and whoever else chooses to tag along have 12 championship golf courses to choose from. Royal Portrush to
Enniscrone will challenge your golfing skills but also your cultural mind - after some golf get out and discover some of the least populated and most stunning parts of Ireland. 
For packages: http://www.northandwestcoastlinks.com/

- Just a small drop
I'm usually not one to name an individual premises and promote it - but when somewhere like Harbour Bar in Bray, Co Wicklow get's voted Lonely Planet's Best pub in world it is impossible not to. The bar is often frequented by Irish celebrities including Colin Farrell,Brendan Gleeson and Sinead O'Connor. Testament to it's charm, the bar also scooped the prize for the “off the beaten track” category this year. http://www.harbourbarbray.com/

-Time to breathe

I have only visited Glendalough once, I was young on a school tour in fact, but despite spending my time worried about looking good in front of boys, I felt unusually calm here. For thousands of years people have been drawn to 'the valley of the two lakes' for its spectacular scenery, rich history, archaeology and abundant wildlife. But aside from all that you should come here without a camera, phone or other tech deck and just breathe - free you mind.


-The obvious choice
This is ridiculous of course everyone has been to the Giant's Causeway by now, right? You haven't? You feel guilty though right? World Heritage Site, Irish Legend and a very cool trip away with friends. You need to see this in 2011 - but be warned it is smaller than expected - oh and don't be lazy take the longer walk it is worth it. http://www.giantscausewayofficialguide.com/

-The Rock of Cashel
I admit I have not visited yet, but by Easter I will be able to boast about prehistoric raths to mediaeval monasteries and fortified town houses and I will be able to report on the smallest book in Ireland - how small is it? Get up and have a look you fool! Get your heritage on this year.









- Cork City
Well when in Tipp you may as well scoot down the motorway to the People's Republic of Cork - a former Culture Capital of Europe and this year's trendiest city. Aside from plenty of culture and heritage and the challenge of understanding Corkonian's accents the nightlife in this cool city is heard bet. What about the Jazz Festival or Live at the Marquee for the music lovers?






- All that glitters...
Like a magpie I love things that sparkle, like diamonds, oh and silver. And I do love Newbridge Silverware jewelery, cutlery, lamps ... everything. But even if you don't have the cash to flash on something new, why not gaze upon some very fabulous things in Newbridge's  Museum dedicated to legendary Style Icons. Be in awe of Michael Jackson's clothes, Audrey Hepburn's dresses, Maryln Monroe's letters, Grace Kelly's style and Judy Garland's extraordinary collection. http://www.newbridgesilverware.com/

-Head north
There are many beautiful places to see in Donegal, none so special as the Inishowen peninsula. See Irish nature run wild, sup in some very strange pubs and meet some unusual people as you walk, climb, drive or cycle your way around this peninsula. Find a secluded beach or indeed return to your pagan heritage and dance around some ancient burial ground.

Walking pretty

I'm delighted with my 8 out of 10 score in The World's Most Walkable Cities Slideshow at Frommer's

And I Agree with their list 100%:

Florence - beautiful

Paris - a romantic delight

New York - visionary overload

Munich - Especially around Christmas

Edinburgh- chilly in Winter but historically perfect

Boston- Tidy city with plenty to cheers about! - get it?!

Melbourne - Unforgettable my favourite place in the world

Sydney- Well it is a must sand and opera

Dubrovnik, Croatia and Vancouver, British Columbia are on their list but as I have not been there I can't quite concur

So I want to add Dublin and London to my top walkable cities.

Both have history, modernity and fun things to look at - and you are bound to meet some very interesting people on your walks too.

These walks are good for your heart in every way - quickly, get your boots on!