Showing posts with label Newgrange. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Newgrange. Show all posts

Tuesday, 30 October 2012

The difference is the security

When people ask me “what is Egypt like” I usually tell them “It is different.”
Different from Ireland, unlike your typical holiday destination, historic beyond comprehension, traditional yet modern, in upheaval yet relaxed.



What is so different? The Irish would argue our Newgrange is older than the pyramids so we can tick off history, Ireland has always been a traditionally religious country so we understand Egyptians passion for their religion, we understand borders too and the need to preserve our culture and we have also been known for our political upheavals.

The actual difference my friends is the level of security.

The amount of security around Cairo and Sharm El Sheikh is like none I have ever seen before. It is intense and it is everywhere. The reason for it is pretty obvious, but aside from the necessity it is there to make you and me and foreign diplomats feel at ease.
Except it does the opposite.


Mubarak party headquarters, Tahrir Square was burned out during the revolution in 2011
(c) fifiheavey


When I arrived at the Hilton, Cairo at 2am on our first night, I barely batted an eye to the security, well my eyes were barely open. But the next day the level and effort put into security around Cairo astounded me.



Airport security is something we have all come familiar with, we know the deal, the checks what is allowed, what is not. Now take that airport security, the metal detector, the bag xray machine, along with some serious looking armed men and their important and urgent questions and place that at every hotel in the country, every shopping mall, every cinema, every museum …. and you get an idea of the level of security in Egypt.

Security at hotel entrance of Marriott Sharm El Sheikh
(c) fifiheavey
If you take a taxi to your hotel, the taxi must stop and show identification before being let inside the 24 hour guarded gates. Also before the taxi can be admitted the boot must be popped open, and checked for explosives. Terrified passengers will also be given the once over with the guard's stern eye before you can be allowed to enter. You may have only left 20 mins before  but the same checks apply each and every time.

You may only want to step outside the hotel door for a cigarette or to check if your taxi is on time, but each time you enter you must pass the metal detector and your bag is scanned.
It is annoying, but is it too much?

For many it provides a safety blanket, a sure bet that your hotel will be safe from any suicide bombers and for a country that has a huge reliance on tourism that is a bet Egyptians want to win.

Sometimes it is the food, the people, the dress, the night-life, the social activities that divides one culture from another, for me it was the security.
Security is a loose term in Ireland, we don’t need it, so it gets little use. But even if we did need it, could we do it? I don’t think so not to that extent, we are too trusting and too lazy to be all the time on the watch out for terrorism activity.

The difference between Ireland and Egypt? The security.

Tuesday, 20 December 2011

Winter Solstice and the old New Year


Happy New Year! 
WHAT you don't celebrate the New Year on December 21st?
Strange.

5,000 years ago in Ireland, the Stone Age Farmers would celebrate the start of a new year, the beginning to the end of Winter and the prospect of a bright new season on December 21, the Winter Solstice.

Light entering the tomb.

Scientifically it is the period when the earth's axial tilt is furthest away from the sun, but in lay woman's terms it is the shortest day of the year, the longest night making way for longer days.
All over the world different cultures interpret the event differently, in Ireland we believe it was an event of huge celebration, sacrifice, prayers and more than likely some alcohol, dancing and general merriment!



The event was such a big deal that 500 years before the pyramids of Giza were constructed, Stone Age farmers had co-operated to build Newgrange Passage Tomb, in the sacred Boyne Valley in Co Meath. The magnificent ancient temple which was re-discovered in the 17th century still conceals secrets about it's exact function.
One thing we do know is that it was built exactly to capture the special Winter Solstice. Every year on December 21 at approx 9am a narrow beam of light enters the roof box, travels down the passage and fills the rear chamber with light. The extraordinary occasion lasts only 17 minutes.

Newgrange Passage Tomb
(c) fifiheavey


To imagine the thought, work and effort that went into capture this moment 5,000 years ago blows my mind. And it certainly places a huge significance around the Winter Solstice and December 21. Of course the end of a bitter winter, of almost hibernation and the prospect of longer days and more sun for a population that relied so heavily on the land for survival is epic. But I think there was more to the event than that, something spiritual, a rebirth of life.

Roof box where the sun light enters during Winter Solstice above the entrance to the tomb.
(c)fifiheavey 

This year 31,531 people applied in the Winter Solstice lottery to be chosen to see the event at Newgrange. (No I didn't get it!)
The sun enters the tomb from December 19 -23, but only fills the entire chamber on December 21. 50 names are randomly picked, and a group of ten get to see the captured sun on each day.
What a way to start the new year before it even begins!
To apply for the 2012 lottery enter here.


Tuesday, 4 October 2011

No photography allowed


You have waited in line for a few hours in line, saved for years, sacrificed your social life, left your loved ones behind and travelled over seas and continents to see (insert landmark, painting, iconic, historic item etc) only to be greeted with the “no photography allowed” sign.



What do you do?

Option 1: “Yeah fair enough, I suppose the (*insert item*) is a really big deal and I don't want to disrespect the (Gods/ ancient tribe/ locals/ museum management) by taking a picture. The memory of seeing this (*insert*) will last forever, the feeling of being here, of standing it it's presence – nothing can take that from me, the pictures in my mind will be 100 times better than any measly effort to try and capture the essence of this (*insert*).

Option 2: “What?!? – no F**ing way – I don't care I am going to take a sneaky photo anyway.”

In my case, both of the options have applied in different circumstances.

My illegal photo of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Rome
(c) fifiheavey
I understand that flash photography can ruin ancient manuscripts and I can also understand that museums and such places need people to come and see their items instead of just looking at a photo. They also don't want any crap blurry shots circulating around the globe ruining their reputation.
And I respect their ideals.

Skulls from Kutna Hora, Sedlec Ossuary, Prague
(c) fifiheavey 
But sometimes, it just doesn't cut it with me, as I have described above there were times when I sacrificed and put in a hell of a lot of effort to go and see items and therefore feel I deserve to take back a picture.

Right of wrong (probably wrong) I know I am not alone, everyone does it. And with sophisticated camera phones now, looking inauspicious has become a lot easier. Photos are taken and nobody knows – no one gets hurt.
Check out http://www.strictlynophotography.com for all the illegal photos of things you are not allowed to photograph!

As I said I do respect the ideal of no photography and a lot of the time I obey it, but it depends on my frame of mind and the amount of respect I hold for the place or item (or how scared I am of the security people!)
Sometimes it is better to reflect on the memory of the visit, than to stare at an illegitimate photo or video footage – it gives it more meaning.

No photography allowed inside the passage tomb at Newgrange.(c) fifiheavey
So what do you think let me know do you obey the no photography sign?

Tuesday, 19 July 2011

Ancient Secrets and mysteries remain at Newgrange

500 years older than the pyramids of Giza and erected over a millennium before Stonehenge, 
Newgrange in The Boyne Valley, Co Meath is as monumental, mysterious and magnificent as you will find.

Entrance to Newgrange passage (c) fifiheavey

Nestled amongst the best green pastures and rolling hills of Ireland, Newgrange lay hidden for four centuries. And even now, excavated, unearthed and world recognised it still holds ancient secrets, the biggest one being it's exact purpose.

It is referred to as a passage tomb, but really an Ancient Temple would suit it more. Remains of dead bodies were found inside, but we still do not know if this was in fact a burial chamber. All over the country we have burial chambers of different sizes and patterns, but Newgrange is different. It is bigger, it was better built, it took decades of hard work and it has a special relationship with the sun and the Winter Solstice.
Celtic mythology named Newgrange as the home of the greatest of the Celtic Gods.

Without any definite knowledge or facts, I feel Newgrange was a place of worship, a location chosen for its astrological, spiritual, religious and ceremonial importance. It is sacred.

Newgrange ancient burial site (c) fifiheavey
Embarrassingly, I took my first visit to Newgrange a few weeks ago. I took the trip alone, and am glad I did, as it gave me time and silence to reflect upon this structure of epic proportions. From the impressive Brú na Bóinne visitor centre I took the tour bus to the ancient site. (Which I had passed before when a friend and I got lost going to Slane!)
Roof Box where the sun enters the tomb
(c) fifiheavey
The group was split in two, as the passage is small inside. The time
out gave me the space to take a good look around the circular mound, and grasp the stunning views from the site. The entrance (reconstructed with stone from the site) is spectacular with a 12” triple spiral engraving stone marking the opening.

Of course the most special aspect of Newgrange is the illumination of the passage and centre by the sun on Winter Solstice, December 21. I put my name down for the lottery, to be able to see the Winter Solstice and I invite you all to do the same here.
To the farmers of the New Stone Age, this was an important day, it was their New Year, it marked the end of a most probable bitter Winter and the prospect of brighter days ahead.

Newgrange has been accessible since 1699, when a landowner discovered it when searching for stones, some marked their visit with graffiti which is sad, but to see people dating their visit in the 1700 and 1800s is still pretty special.
I cannot recommend a visit enough, to tourists, to historians, to those with a day spare, or even a few hours.
There is a reason Ireland is renowned for its spiritual beauty, for its ancient wisdom and
mysterious charm – feel it, touch it and see it at Newgrange.

Constructed in 3,200 BC: Newgrange (c) fifiheavey



Tuesday, 5 April 2011

Man made inspiration



My creative angle of the Eiffel Tower, Paris (© Fiona Heavey)

We all have different reasons for choosing our holiday/ trip destinations, but for many we want to see world famous icons, landscapes, buildings and stand in awe, as thousands have before us and of course get the perfect picture to show off to friends back home!
Lonely Planet posted their “most iconic human-made structures” this week, and the geek that I am this made me very excited as I drooled over the places I have yet to set my eyes on.
Out of the ten named, I have only actually seen and touched three of them, which is sort of pathetic for someone who loves travelling and thinks about it 24/7!
These include the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Chrylser Building in NYC and Big Ben, London.
All three are super impressive. The Eiffel Tower is really not all that amazing when seen during the day, but it has become a world wide icon for romance and viwed at night all lit up or dangling over the edgewith a loved one really does make it special. (Must be why I have visited it twice)
Big Ben symbolizes London, it also is a symbol of democracy as it stands high over the Palace of Westminster and although it is not really tall or large or impressive it certainly strikes a cord and is a must for history fans.
The Chrylser for me was exciting because of the movie King Kong (remember the big ape at the end?). It is more modern that the other three and so although it dominates the New York skyline didn't impress me as much. (Although I do have a nifty photo from there.)
The remaining seven icons listed by lonely Planet are all structures I really want to see in the next 5-10 years.

Big Ben at 4.12pm (© Fiona Heavey) 




These include:
  • Angkor Wat, Cambodia
  • Taj Mahal, India
  • Great Pyramids, Egypt
  • The Great Wall of China
  • Machu Pichu, Peru,
  • Mount Rushmore, USA
  • Stonehenge, England





None of them need an explanation from me on how amazing they are, I will leave that until the day I actually get to touch their exterior.

 I do think that the Lonely Planet did miss out on The Colosseum and The Pantheon in Rome, as well as the Acropolis of Athens amongst many more. And we should not forget out own Newgrange which is one of the most impressive man made structures in the world.
But this list is certainly a starting point of an impressive photo collection and with a sale on with aerlingus at the mo, three of Lonely Planet's top ten could be viewed, touched and photographed on a budget!